Gentle Ylang Ylang and Mandarin Cleansing Oil

Ylang Ylang and Mandarin Cleansing Oil by The Floral Mixtress


The ylang ylang flower has a very sweet, heavy and slightly spicy exotic floral scent. It is said to make you feel happy and calm. I love to use this essential oil in my night-time cleanser as calm and happy is just how I want to feel before bed. It is also said to promote sexuality which is not altogether a bad thing just before bed either.There is also something very luxurious about the scent and I am all about everyday luxury. It blends well with the sweet and refreshing scent of mandarin.

This cleanser is based on the Nude Cleansing Oil which has become quite a phenomenon in natural skin care and now many companies are offering a cleansing oil which dissolves in water.

It is a very simple but clever idea. You make the oil phase of a lotion – a combination of oils, an emulsifier and an antioxidant – so it goes on your face feeling and behaving like an oil. However, when you rinse it off the water combines with the oil phase to become a light lotion which rinses easily off. The benefits are that you don’t have to use a preservative as there is no water in the formula and it is less drying than your usual surfactant-containing cleanser. As it acts like an oil on your face prior to adding water it is great for dissolving make-up.


I don’t have on hand the emulsifier they use in the Nude Cleansing Oil (polyglycerol-4 oleate), but if you do feel free to use it instead of the sorbitan monostearate. As Polyglycerol-4-oleate is a liquid you won’t need to heat it, just mix it with the other ingredients. Another option – used in the Eve Lom and Shu Uemura cleansing oils – is Polysorbate 80. Use the Polysorbate 80 at a rate of 20%

The sorbitan monostearate will not dissolve nicely into your heated oils. It will tease you with the appearance that it is about to and then form a white layer on top of the oil as in the photo below:

Making a dissolving cleansing oil by The Floral Mixrtress

As it cools it will thicken slightly but still appear to have flakes of the sorbitan monostearate in it. However, it will work just dandy so put it in a nice opaque bottle and don’t worry about it. Or order yourself some polyglycerol-4-oleate or polysorbate-80. The sorbitan monostearate provides a mild emulsifying and thickening action. If you squirt a few pumps into the palm of your hand, drop in some water and mix it you will get a more opaque, creamy lotion with small droplets of oil visible. I find that by the time I have rinsed it off and wiped my face with a flannel my skin is clean but not stripped of all oil.


  • bain marie or a saucepan and a glass bowl that sits in the top of the saucepan without touching the bottom
  • metal spoon for stirring
  • electronic scales
  • stove top or other heat source


  • 68% Olea europea (olive oil)
  • 25% Ricinis communis (castor oil)
  • 5.5% Sorbitan Monostearate (sorbitan stearate)
  • .5% Alpha tocopherol (vitamin E)
  • .5% Cananga odorata (ylang ylang essential oil)
  • .5% Citrus reticulata (mandarin essential oil)


  1. Bring some water to the boil in your saucepan.
  2. Place the glass bowl on your scales, turn the scales on and press the tare button.
  3. Measure the olive oil and sorbitan stearate into the glass bowl.
  4. Place the glass bowl over the saucepan and heat until the sorbitan stearate has melted.
  5. Remove the glass bowl from the heat and pour the oil mixture into a 100 ml bottle.
  6. Let cool to luke warm, shaking every now and again.
  7. Place the bottle on your scales, turn the scales on and press the tare button.
  8. Measure the vitamin E and ylang ylang essential oil into the bottle, pop the lid on and give it a shake.
  9. Head immediately to your bathroom and use it to wash your face because you just can’t wait.

Instructions for use

  • Place one or two pumps of the product into your dry hands.
  • Massage onto your face and taking paying particular attention to your eye make-up.
  • Splash water over your face to remove and finish by stroking a damp face cloth over your skin.
  • Revel in your soft and sweetly scented skin. How gorgeous and kissable are you ?! Quite, in case you didn’t know that already.

One response

  1. Pingback: Nic’s Sunshine Sugar Scrub « The Floral Mixtress

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