The ylang ylang flower has a very sweet, heavy and slightly spicy exotic floral scent. It is said to make you feel happy and calm. I love to use this essential oil in my night-time cleanser as calm and happy is just how I want to feel before bed. It is also said to promote sexuality which is not altogether a bad thing just before bed either.There is also something very luxurious about the scent and I am all about everyday luxury. It blends well with the sweet and refreshing scent of mandarin.
This cleanser is based on the Nude Cleansing Oil which has become quite a phenomenon in natural skin care and now many companies are offering a cleansing oil which dissolves in water.
It is a very simple but clever idea. You make the oil phase of a lotion – a combination of oils, an emulsifier and an antioxidant – so it goes on your face feeling and behaving like an oil. However, when you rinse it off the water combines with the oil phase to become a light lotion which rinses easily off. The benefits are that you don’t have to use a preservative as there is no water in the formula and it is less drying than your usual surfactant-containing cleanser. As it acts like an oil on your face prior to adding water it is great for dissolving make-up.
I don’t have on hand the emulsifier they use in the Nude Cleansing Oil (polyglycerol-4 oleate), but if you do feel free to use it instead of the sorbitan monostearate. As Polyglycerol-4-oleate is a liquid you won’t need to heat it, just mix it with the other ingredients. Another option – used in the Eve Lom and Shu Uemura cleansing oils – is Polysorbate 80. Use the Polysorbate 80 at a rate of 20%
The sorbitan monostearate will not dissolve nicely into your heated oils. It will tease you with the appearance that it is about to and then form a white layer on top of the oil as in the photo below:
As it cools it will thicken slightly but still appear to have flakes of the sorbitan monostearate in it. However, it will work just dandy so put it in a nice opaque bottle and don’t worry about it. Or order yourself some polyglycerol-4-oleate or polysorbate-80. The sorbitan monostearate provides a mild emulsifying and thickening action. If you squirt a few pumps into the palm of your hand, drop in some water and mix it you will get a more opaque, creamy lotion with small droplets of oil visible. I find that by the time I have rinsed it off and wiped my face with a flannel my skin is clean but not stripped of all oil.
- bain marie or a saucepan and a glass bowl that sits in the top of the saucepan without touching the bottom
- metal spoon for stirring
- electronic scales
- stove top or other heat source
- 68% Olea europea (olive oil)
- 25% Ricinis communis (castor oil)
- 5.5% Sorbitan Monostearate (sorbitan stearate)
- .5% Alpha tocopherol (vitamin E)
- .5% Cananga odorata (ylang ylang essential oil)
- .5% Citrus reticulata (mandarin essential oil)
- Bring some water to the boil in your saucepan.
- Place the glass bowl on your scales, turn the scales on and press the tare button.
- Measure the olive oil and sorbitan stearate into the glass bowl.
- Place the glass bowl over the saucepan and heat until the sorbitan stearate has melted.
- Remove the glass bowl from the heat and pour the oil mixture into a 100 ml bottle.
- Let cool to luke warm, shaking every now and again.
- Place the bottle on your scales, turn the scales on and press the tare button.
- Measure the vitamin E and ylang ylang essential oil into the bottle, pop the lid on and give it a shake.
- Head immediately to your bathroom and use it to wash your face because you just can’t wait.
Instructions for use
- Place one or two pumps of the product into your dry hands.
- Massage onto your face and taking paying particular attention to your eye make-up.
- Splash water over your face to remove and finish by stroking a damp face cloth over your skin.
- Revel in your soft and sweetly scented skin. How gorgeous and kissable are you ?! Quite, in case you didn’t know that already.